Started in 1985 by Toshikiyo Hirata, Kapital is the amalgamation of traditional Japanese techniques and contemporary aesthetics. The combination of old and new is at the very heart of the brand’s designs, with silhouettes and production methods from both ancient Japan and mid-century America featuring heavily.
Kapital’s current output comes from the mind of Toshikiyo’s son, Kiro, previously the menswear designer for cult Japanese label, 45R. Building on the legacy of his father’s successful denim business, Kiro’s enigmatic designs and seemingly far-flung reference points are hard to pinpoint and understand without taking into account his very specific use of construction styles.
Hugely influenced by traditional methods of production from Japan's Edo Period, Kapital can be understood as a modern incarnation of ancient Japanese craftsmanship, blending techniques such as boro, meaning something tattered or repaired, and sashiko, meaning little stabs, with contemporary fabrication and silhouettes found in modern day menswear.
But there are also other influences at play. Counter culture motifs such as smiley faces and ban the bomb symbols have been reimagined through an Eastern lens, filtered through the decades and across continents to be reimagined in Kiro’s garments.
Another flavour of Americana, the military, can be seen everywhere from silhouettes to detailing. And then there is the constant obsession with denim, something Kiro has inherited from his father.
But what Toshikiyo started – exact reproductions of vintage American styles in the vein of Lee and Levi’s – Kiro has built upon, embellishing with an artist’s eye to grow Kapital into what many consider to be one of the most pioneering labels around.
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