The CPO (Chief Petty Officer) shirt, also known as the naval shirt or the CPO jacket, is a classic piece of American military apparel that has made a significant impact on fashion history.
Its origins date back to the early 20th century, specifically to the 1930s, when it was designed for the United States Navy. This garment was initially created to meet the practical needs of Chief Petty Officers, hence its name.
The design of the CPO shirt was driven by functionality. The navy needed a durable, warm, and comfortable shirt that could withstand the harsh conditions at sea. The shirt was made from heavyweight wool, a material chosen for its insulating properties and ability to repel water. It featured two chest pockets with button flaps, providing convenient storage for small tools and personal items.
The shirt's cut was roomy, allowing for ease of movement, which was essential for sailors engaged in various physical tasks aboard ships.
During World War II, the CPO shirt gained widespread use among the navy personnel, cementing its status as a staple in military uniform. Its practicality and ruggedness made it highly valued, and its design remained relatively unchanged over the decades. The shirt’s dark navy colour was chosen for its ability to hide stains and its association with naval tradition.
Post-World War II, the CPO shirt transcended its military roots and began to enter civilian fashion. Surplus CPO shirts found their way into army-navy stores, where they were picked up by outdoorsmen, workers, and fashion enthusiasts alike. Its durability and timeless style made it popular among various subcultures, from beatniks and bikers in the 1950s and 1960s to the punk rock scene in the 1970s and 1980s.
The shirt's adoption by civilians was partly due to its versatility. It could be worn as a standalone shirt, a light jacket, or layered over other garments for additional warmth. This adaptability made it a favourite in regions with cooler climates and among those who appreciated functional fashion.
The CPO shirt's influence continued to grow in the latter part of the 20th century. High-end fashion designers began to take note of its classic design, incorporating elements of the CPO shirt into their collections. Brands such as Ralph Lauren and J.Crew reimagined the CPO shirt, producing versions made from various materials and in different colors, while retaining the essential features that made it iconic.
In contemporary fashion, the CPO shirt remains a beloved garment. It is often seen in collections that emphasise heritage and workwear aesthetics. The original wool versions are still prized for their quality and authenticity, while modern iterations explore new fabrics and styles, ensuring the CPO shirt’s relevance in the ever-evolving fashion landscape.
The history of the CPO shirt is a testament to its enduring appeal. From its practical beginnings in the United States Navy to its status as a fashion icon, the CPO shirt embodies a blend of utility, durability, and timeless style. Its journey from military uniform to a staple in civilian wardrobes highlights the fluid nature of fashion and the enduring influence of well-designed functional garments.
